Cycling in Gatineau Park

Enjoying the Labour Day holiday, I took advantage of the excellent weather to ride my favourite area circuit in Gatineau Park, just across the provincial boundary in Quebec.  I met up with another cyclist, Michael, on his new Devinci road bike and we proceeded to cruise up the Camp Fortune climb and then on to Champlain Lookout before turning around and heading home.  It is not quite the Alps, but the roads are excellent and at 8:30 on a holiday morning there is not much traffic to speak of.

To give you an idea of the Park, here is a brief video I made in June when I rode with my friend Barry to the Lookout.  As you can see, it is a popular training route for many cyclists around here.

The Great Allegheny Passage, Day 3

Construction begins in Meyersdale at its main intersection...

Getting up early, I decided to take a walk through Meyersdale and scout out locations for breakfast.  Although it describes itself as “the Maple City” and has hosted the Pennsylvania Maple Festival for the last six decades, I have to be honest to say that there was not much going on it downtown Meyersdale at 8:30 on a weekday morning.  It was obvious that business has pretty much bypassed the place because of all the shops I walked by with plate glass windows, not one actually had a store operating in it.  The largest set of windows belonged to the local community promotion association, and featured historical photos of Meyersdale and a presentation on a new project: the replacement of asphalt at the main intersection and installation of a mosaic with a maple leaf in it.  As a Canadian, I thought this was nice but it is unclear if it will mean much in the way of additional tourism in Meyersdale.  Many of the buildings were rather rundown so it will probably take additional investment, but since there are only 2,500 people in the town it is unlikely to find a lot of capital.  During the coal-mining era, Meyersdale was a busier place: in 1910 it had 3,700 inhabitants. 

French toast and excellent coffee

After watching the workmen begin the excavations for the maple leaf plaza, I walked past a likely prospect for breakfast: the Java Café, described to me by the lady who rented us our rooms as “Meyersdale’s Starbucks.”  It looked promising, and I walked back to the Burgess House to round up the rest of the crew.

At the Java Café we enjoyed excellent coffee and French toast before our departure.  The bikes were clean (or at least a lot cleaner than when we arrived!), we were rested and fed so it was time to move on.  Climbing the hill up Main Street towards the trail, we passed an enormous old house that was empty and for sale, the sign indicating it would be a good B&B.  It looked like it could hold a significant part of Meyersdale’s population in its 3,000 square feet (279 sq. m).  Even at only US$ 159,000 there were no takers amongst us.  The house is still available for anyone who wants to get into the house-to-B&B conversion business.  You can check it out here.

 Dr. Chef crosses the Keystone Viaduct

A right turn and we were back on the Great Allegheny Passage trail.  One mile down the road and we came to the Bollman Bridge, an attractive cast iron bridge originally built for the B&O Railway in 1871 to serve as a farm road crossing over the tracks.  It was lifted, disassembled and then moved to its present location on the GAP trail, opening for cyclists in 2007 at its current location at Mile 31.  Of course, the structures get even more impressive as next on the trail is the 900 foot (277 m) long Keystone Viaduct, the subject of extensive repair in 2002-3.  It takes cyclists over both the active CSX railway tracks and Flaugherty Creek.

The trail continued to roll downhill, which it would do for the whole day and soon we came to a little tunnel marked as the Eastern Continental Divide.  It is an unusual geographic feature as there are three watersheds, with water flowing to the St. Laurent River, the Gulf of Mexico and to the Atlantic Ocean.  Prior to 1760, the Divide marked the boundary between French and British colonial possessions in North America.  At this point, we were 2,375 feet (724 m) above sea level, the highest point on our ride.  It would be all downhill from here on in as we began to ride the last 25 miles of the trail to our destination of Cumberland.

Dr. Chef and I rolled on ahead and there before us was the portal marking the most impressive railway structure of all: the Big Savage Tunnel.  I had thought that the Pawpaw Tunnel on the C&O was impressive but it was nothing compared to this!  Built in 1911-12, it cuts through 3,300 feet (1005 m) of mountain rock.  The original construction was difficult due to soft, wet mud and sand near the western portal and even today red sand continues to spill down.  After the rail line was abandoned in 1975, the tunnel, which had required constant maintenance, deteriorated but was saved in the late 1990s when a US$ 12 million restoration project was undertaken.  The tunnel reopened in 2003 and huge steel doors were added at each end in 2004.  These are closed from the first Friday in December to the first Friday in April to prevent damage from freezing and thawing, so the tunnel is not accessible then.

Riding into the lit tunnel was an odd experience.  The roadway seemed smooth and I took out my video camera to try and give an impression of what it was like to ride in the semi-darkness for 3/5ths of a mile.  The exit seemed a long way away.  Of course, Dr. Chef took the opportunity to do some screaming to determine if there was much of an echo in the tunnel.  Of course there was.

We broke out into the morning sunlight and had a fine view of the Allegany County (yes, the spelling is right), Maryland and the surrounding mountains, having only descended 75 feet (23 m) from the Divide.  The morning mountain fog had not lifted but we still had a great feeling for the land around us.  It looked very wild, considering that the area has been settled since the 1770s.  The road ahead beckoned, but now the descent was more definite and we rolled easily along the crushed gravel trail.  Of course, we all had to stop and take photographs and horse around at the boundary line between Pennsylvania and Maryland, the very famous Mason-Dixon Line.

Most people think that the Mason-Dixon Line is somewhere in the Deep South, like Alabama, but in fact it was commissioned to settle a land dispute between the colonies of Pennsylvania, Maryland and Delaware.  A major surveying feat, it was undertaken under the direction of two Englishmen between 1763 and 1767 and continues to be considered the demarcation of a cultural divided between the Northern and Southern United States.

Moving more rapidly, we passed through the Borden Tunnel and, circling the town of Frostburg, we soon were riding alongside the tracks of the Western Maryland Scenic Railway, a steam train tourist line currently under renovation.  The next tunnel, the Brush, sees the GAP trail sharing space with the rail line.  Soon we entered the Narrows, the dramatic cut in the mountains that leads you down into Cumberland (elevation 625 feet (190 m) ASL).  The bike route swiftly took us into the downtown section of this lively town that has changed its coal and railroad past to become a tourism centre, with a lively arts and entertainment district.

We checked in at the Park Service Office to let them know we had returned and were going to get our cars from the parking lot.  We stopped for the obligatory group photo in front of the canal barge mule and muleteer statue and then rode the last short distance to the cars.  During this, the easiest of our three days of cycling, we covered 52. 83 kms (32.8 miles) in 2 hours and 20 minutes of cycling, plus stops for photographs or to allow Dr. Chef to scream.  Surprisingly, we managed to climb 145 m (475 feet) somewhere along the ride but it must have been a foot here and a foot there since it really was a downhill ride.  Even on the crushed gravel and with our panniers, we still hit speeds of over 50 km/h (31 mph).

To celebrate our succesful ride, we went for lunch at the Queen City Creamery, which is arranged to look like a 1940s soda fountain.  We enjoyed grilled cheese sandwiches and milk shakes and the sorts of food that cycling allows you to consume.  Of course, being a trendy and with-it place, the Creamery also offers an Espresso Bar.

Thus it was shortly after lunch that I said goodbye to my friends as we got into our three cars.  To Mrs. Badger this was her first cycletouring experience and she enjoyed it hugely, rain and all.  For Dr. Chef and me, this marked our completion of the entire 335 mile (539 kms) cycleable route from Georgetown in Washington, DC, to the edge of Pittsburgh, an historic Route to the West.  The Badger had also ridden the C&O before, so this made his trip complete but now he will have to ride the canal towpath with the Mrs.  The area around Cumberland is quite beautiful and I willingly admit that I would go back to ride there again and be challenged by the impressive climbs in the Alleghenies.



It is a challenge for any region facing a decline it its major industries--in this case, coal and steel--to find an alternative.  The developers of the Great Allegheny Passage have taken advantage of existing infrastructure and the area's considerable natural beauty to build something unique.  I was encouraged by all the activity around Ohiopyle but it is clear that there is still some way to go since there are not a lot of restaurants along the trail and hotels are scarce.  This means that if you are coming further than on a day trip from Pittsburgh you might have some issues.  There is a lot of competition for tourism money in the world and it would be nice to see places like Meyersdale and Ohiopyle become better-known and more prosperous.

Driving north, I had little traffic on the smaller highways I took.  Unfortunately, I was hoping to find a truck stop where I could have a shower but the best I could do was to clean up somewhat at a convenience store.  The trip went quickly and there was no back-up at the border when I crossed at Buffalo into Fort Erie, Ontario and by early evening I had arrived at my old hometown of Oakville to visit my mother.  Of course, the next day I took out the Marinoni, polished it up again and went for a ride on the Niagara Escarpment in beautiful weather.  You can never pass up a great cycling opportunity, and our discovery of a wild and beautiful corner of the United States was an example of the pleasure that cycling can bring.

Performance! featuring MC SpandX

Back from Holidays

The Lost Boys and Girls in Bavaria
August 6, 2009
Photo by E. Domenge

My wonderful holiday in Europe, featuring ten days of cycling followed by a one-week excursion to Berlin, has ended. The weather was superb, marred only by a half-day of rain in Bolzano, and the scenery, food and company outstanding. I have sorted through my 300 photos and will be writing up our adventures in the coming days.

Giro dell'Inferno: The Lost Boys Tour of Europe 2009

Well--how did this happen? After months and months and months of planning, I am off with a group of ten friends on our European cycling adventure tomorrow. First we will ride in the Munich area as a warm-up, and then it is on to the Dolomites of Northern Italy to really test our mettle on some famous climbs.

I am travelling very light this time and am leaving the laptop behind, so stay tuned for the complete story once I have returned to the Internet World on August 25.

Fabian's Time Trial Frame: The Shiv

This is the frame on which Spartacus rode 40.5 kms in 48:33 today at the Tour de France's Annecy time trial. This ride included the Cat. 3 climb at Bluffy (not to be confused with nearby Gruffy!) and comes after several days of dragging the Schleck brothers around the mountains. Well done, Fabian!

The Bike Cave™

Floor-to-ceiling cycling!

With the gradual growth of the bicycle fleet and the apparent reduction in size in our basement, I finally decided to get serious about organizing things and went off to Mountain Equipment and purchased some bike racks. These things look like they can't possibly hold up two bikes but in fact are very cleverly designed. And with six bikes at home (BlackAdder resides in the garage for most of the year) I was all set.

The Bike Cave™ features: three racks with bikes; hooks for hanging spare wheels in their bags and for workout tubing; a set of wire shelves for touring equipment, extra parts, spare tubes and tires, cleaning supplies and lubricants; a large television/DVD/VHS system for the training videos; a big set of plastic boxes containing cycling magazines; a small sound system for Eurotrance music workouts; a gym bench with weights, sitting on rubber workout mats; a large bookshelf with doors for the cycling book collection; a really large wardrobe for cycling clothes, shoes, helmets and nutrition supplies; a Kurt Kinetic trainer workout area, with a floor fan.

My considerable collection of framed jerseys and posters has not yet found a home mainly because the basement is unfinished and I can't figure out where or how to hang them.

There is no beer fridge. Yet.

Not very glamourous but probably better than what Eddy Merckx began with.

Be Careful Out There

Yesterday, a nice sunny day, saw a serious incident when five cyclists, riding early in the morning on a marked bike lane in a quiet area just west of Ottawa, were struck by a hit-and-run driver and left unconscious on the road. Two of them have life-threatening injuries.

They were apparently experienced riders (I don't know any of them personally), so all I can say is be careful out there. A report of the incident (I do not consider these things "accidents") made the national press in Canada here, as well as the local press here. An arrest has been made and five charges of failing to remain at the scene of an accident have been laid, with more charges expected. In my own view, the standard of driving continues to decline in North America and it should be far more difficult to obtain a driver's license.

UPDATE: Although four of the cyclists seem to be out of danger, the fifth is in very critical condition and apparently has brain damage. On a positive note, Lance Armstrong, in his daily video from the Tour de France, mentioned the incident after his summary of Stage 16, and sent his best wishes. Although an often controversial person in the world of cycling, he certainly has some admirable qualities off the bike as well.

Tour de France Pre-Stage 16 Update from Lance Armstrong -- powered by http://www.livestrong.com

Time Trial Thursday Yet Again

Stopwatch Test
photo by casey.marshall, Creative Commons

Although I was feeling a bit tired after doing a 15 km time trial on July 2, a 40 km time trial on July 5, a 10 km time trial on July 9, and another 40 km on July 12 (every one of which was a personal best on those courses), my coach thought it would be a good idea to do the Thursday Ottawa Bicycle Club Open Time Trial yet again, describing its importance more a mental thing than a physical one. So I left work a bit early and cycled home to get ready, with what looked like an impending thunderstorm overhead. Quickly packed up, I drove off to the course although I have to admit I did not feel as aggressively happy as last Sunday, or the previous Thursday.

While the thunderstorm did not actually appear, there was a goodly amount of wind blowing down the course. This week there were almost no rollerbladers so I could not use the excuse that I had to change my line as a reason for riding so slowly. The number of time triallers seemed to have dropped from last week as well and someone told me that a lot of the 15 km participants don't bother coming out for this shorter ride. I have to say that I like riding on a smooth closed road very much, and if nothing else it is a 10 km interval training session.

The warm-up went well, although I was starting to overheat a bit as the temperature was around 26C, but I find that I go better in heat so I was not worried. The launch went smoothly but I could feel the tailwind as I quickly reached up to nearly 51 km/h before spooling down and getting into a more relaxed position. At about 3 kms I felt some pain in my stomache but I could see my 30 second man, on a fancy Cervelo, up ahead, and I quickly forgot my discomfort.

At the turnaround, I tried out the advice of braking at the last second as the volunteers gesticulated wildly, probably thinking I was going to keep going. It was not the best turn but I was on the climb very quickly and found on this part of the return course I could really bring up the speed, hitting 44/45 km/h. I could still see the rider on the Cervelo and thought I was getting a bit closer, although it was unlikely I could catch him.

Fully into the wind now (it was blowing out the west at around 20 km/h) and I had trouble keeping the speed much over 39-40 km/h, and my heart rate was a hammering 172 bpm. This week the finish line did not come up unexpectedly but seemed tauntingly far away once I saw it. But I kept at it and crossed the line in a decent time, albeit not nearly as fast as last week. I actually felt slow for most of the course and the wind really exhausted me at the end. I was surprised that I was only 13 seconds off of last week's pace, coming in at 14:44, for an average of 40.72 km/h in spite of the wind. My coach thinks this shows a good consistency and I am happy that last week's fast ride was not a fluke. Two of the riders ahead of me were two I was faster than last week so perhaps next week I can surpass them again. It was a breakthrough of sorts since I was no longer placed 5th in my age group, leaping to 4th (and only 5 seconds away from a podium placing). Still came 15th overall, this time out of 47 riders.

And now I can look forward to some bike polishing and some recovery time before next week's time trial.

The Dollars and Sense of Commuting

Piggy Bank
Photo by alancleaver 2000, Creative Commons

Although I truly enjoy riding to work every day, I basically have no choice except for cycling anyway since walking takes about 50 mintues each way and the bus requires a transfer and is otherwise quite inconvenient. No parking is available at my workplace either, but there is lots of bike parking and a locker room.

However, if I did have a choice, I would probably ride anyway. And, even better, according to a calculator at Kiplinger.com, a finance website, compared to driving I save enough money to buy a rather modest lunch each day. Modest enough to ensure that I will not gain any weight. You can figure out your own savings here here.