After an excellent night’s sleep, and drying out the cycling shoes with the room blow-dryer (probably not recommended for leather, but it works fine for the artificial stuff), we faced a new morning that was cool and clear. Although there was some concern about the temperatures at altitude, the weather looked promising and after breakfast we took the bikes out of the storage room and put out suitcases on the bus.
We were actually entering this pass road about halfway up from its start in Thones, missing out on 440 m of climbing but it was supposed to be a pleasant warm-up climb. I realized that for the first time on the trip I was actually riding alone and it was a nice sensation to cruise entirely at my own pace. I soon came to the first easy hairpins and enjoyed them as I climbed in a mid-range gear. I rapidly overcame a cyclist who was bobbing a bit and not keeping a very steady line. When I passed him I realized that he must have been 80 years old, white-haired and not very frail-looking. I hope that when I reach four-score-years I too will be still challenging the Alps!
Pretty soon I had caught up to our group, and remarks were made yet again about my navigational skills. It is the “Lost Boys” tour so it was only truth-in-advertising. But we were all enjoying the wonderful gentle climb and we rapidly gained the summit of l’Aravis, having gone from 1040 m (3400 ft)ASL at La Clusaz to 1486 m (4875 ft) ASL at the top. Except for a short section of around 8.5%, most of the climb was in the 6-6.5% range so it was not very challenging.
We enjoyed fine views, and there was a lovely little church at the summit, along with the requisite restaurant and souvenir shop selling local products. In addition to the postcards, chocolate and liqueurs, this place also was offering cowhides, of all things. We did our photography thing and then headed downhill before starting our second climb of the day. There was a short tunnel after the summit and later on one of our group, the irrepressible Andrew Junior, would come to grief against its walls and bend up his front wheel. But for now we just had a beautiful day ahead.
The descent was superb and took us along a narrow canyon, the Gorges de l’Arondine, as we whipped along the D909 to the village of Flumet. Each time we ducked into the shadows it became quite cold at speed but we covered the 11.5 kms (7.1 miles) comfortably. But by the time we arrived in Flumet we figured it was time for a coffee and found a little place. Across the street was a very traditional-looking meat shop and I insisted on taking Ralph’s photo out front. The proprietress came out, delighted that we were photographing her shop, and insisted we come inside to do some pictures. She gave Ralph a salami to hold and our day was already worthwhile!
After coffee we rode out of the village and began the pleasant climb of the Col des Saisies. This was a bit more difficult than l’Aravis but I felt very strong and set a good pace, riding with Greg and Larry as we continued upwards, passing a small ski area and enjoying the nearly traffic-free route. The climb is 14.8 kms (9.2 miles), at an average of 5%, and goes from 910 m (2985 ft) ASL at Flumet to 1657 m (5436 ft) ASL at the summit, giving us 747 vertical m (2450 ft) for this climb.
We rolled up quite steadily and the road levelled off at the top, where Larry challenged me to a sprint, about the only one I tried on the trip and which I was pretty unsuccessful at as I was still using my 34-26. There was a fairly big community of restaurants and tourist traps at this little ski area, which was established by an Austrian in 1936. We took the obligatory photos and looked at the memorial to the French Resistance and the United States. Beaufort, where we were headed for lunch, was a hotbed of the Resistance and on August 1, 1944, the flat plain at Les Saisies was the site of Operation Ebony, a massive parachute deployment of 889 containers of equipment, dropped from 78 US Air Force Flying Fortress bombers, in two waves of 36 aircraft, that had flown from the London area. A commando group of seven US Marines also parachuted in, with one of the group fatally injured on landing. The maquis fighters had cut off communications and intercepted a German squad coming from Albertville. The drop, executed in broad daylight, brought in enough equipment to supply 3,000 men. We were to see numerous monuments to the Free French, marked with the Cross of Lorraine, on this trip.
At les Saisies we put on our armwarmers, leggings and windvests and zipped downhill to our lunch rendezvous in Beaufort where several members of the group were already waiting. Udo and the bus soon joined us and here we learned of Andrew Junior’s mishap. Luckily we had a spare front wheel so he would soon be able to join us on the road again.
Now began the challenge of the day: the glorious Cormet de Roselend, 20.32 kms (12.6 miles) of climbing, at an average grade of 5%, which is a bit misleading as there are some good sections of 9-10% on this gorgeous climb. It has been included in the Tour de France nine times since 1979, most recently in 2007. I rode it myself in 2006 but from the other direction.

It had been a truly wonderful day, one of the best ever I have had in cycling. We covered three passes (four, technically), with my bike computer indicating 93.91 kms (58.35 miles) of riding and 2682 m (8800 feet) of climbing. Superb!
3 comments:
What an exciting tour.
Thank you for the "pictorial".
What a wonderful way to see the world. Thanks for bringing closer to "home" for all of us to share.
Wow. You make me wanna quit my job and go on a cycling tour around Europe. Now. Amazing photography and great writing. Thanks for sharing this adventure.
I agree that descent of Roselend was beyond amazing. I am glad that only Bruyneel went over the edge - and none of us
Post a Comment