Showing posts with label Olympics. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Olympics. Show all posts

Sunday, 17 September 2023

My Challenge Ride at Lake Placid, September 15, 2023

Lake Placid, located in the New York State's Adirondack Mountains region, is one of only three places that have hosted the Winter Olympics twice, the others being Innsbruck and St. Moritz. Lake Placid held its events in 1932 and 1980 and remains a destination for winter sports enthusiasts, as well as for outdoor activities of all kinds throughout the year. It offers road cyclists some outstanding opportunities for riding and one of these is the Ironman Loop.

My route along the Lake Placid Ironman loop and Whiteface Mountain

The first Ironman triathlon in Lake Placid took place in 1999 and for many years was the only Ironman venue in the United States besides the Ironman World Championships in Kona, Hawaii. The cycling course, which has varied slightly from year to year, is two circuits of a 90 km (56.5 mile) course. Each of these loops has an elevation gain of 640 m (2019 ft), with most of the gain coming in the second half.

Lake Placid, which is two hours' drive south of Montreal, is keen to market itself as a cycling region and many of the roads are marked to show bicycle traffic. Shoulders are paved and wideand generally in very good condition. All along the route, even when there is no Ironman on, there are “portable restrooms” marked with very visible signs. The scenery is beautiful although this route apparently ranks as one of the toughest Ironman courses. That said, the Men's Ironman World Championships, recently held in Nice, was much harder, featuring a bike course with double the elevation gain!


Main Street, Lake Placid

The Pines Inn, my hotel

On a beautiful early Fall day I rolled out of my hotel (possibly one of the very few budget alternatives in town and probably THE place to stay in Lake Placid circa 1912) and eased downhill and onto Main Street, which runs along the shore of Mirror Lake—for some reason the village of Lake Placid is not actually on nearby Lake Placid!--and takes you past an amazing number of restaurants, outdoor equipment stores, and realtors' offices. It takes you past the hockey arena where the 1980 “Miracle on Ice” match took place and the big high school, which has the Olympic speed skating oval in front of it. A little further and you are out of town and following Route 73 southeast in the direction of Keene

Olympic ice hockey venue

There are reminders of Lake Placid's Olympic past as you will see on your right the two towers that mark the tops of the 100 m and 128 m ski jumps, the only jumps in North America that are homologated for summer as well as winter competitions. Built for the 1980 Games, they were modernized in 2021. The next bit of Olympic history is when the Ironman course takes a little detour to the Mt. Van Hoevenberg Olympic Sports Complex, which is the home of the bobsled track. The track was built in 1930 and used in the 1932 and 1980 Games. The most recent version of the track was constructed in 2000 and the site is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

 

Although Route 73 had a fair amount of traffic on a Friday morning, the shoulders of the road make riding safe enough and for a good portion of the Ironman loop here the road goes downhill, making some sections very speedy indeed. Exhilarating, in fact.


Reaching the hamlet of Keene, you leave Route 73, turning left onto Hwy 9N, and enjoy a beautiful ride on a quiet road heading north alongside the Ausable River until reaching the hamlets of Upper Jay and Jay proper. Jay has a nice village green but is notable as having the only covered bridge in the Adirondacks. Originally built in 1857, it eventually fell into disrepair and was removed, while the current bridge, using original hand-hewn beams, was opened as a footbridge in 2007.




Another left turn takes you from Jay onto Route 86, which goes northwest and gradually climbs before the Ironman course takes another out-and-back detour along Haselton Road. Unlike most of the loop, this 22 km total section is shaded by tall trees and features lots of gentle climbs and descents as you reach the turnaround at the hamlet of Black Brook and come back. A really lovely section of road. Next stop: Wilmington.





Wilmington near the base of Whiteface Mountain and I took a break at the Visitors Bureau, which was all decorated for Fall. Speaking with the lady working there, I learned that she was the chief organizer of the bicycle race held every June that starts at the Visitor Bureau parking lot and goes to the top of Whiteface Mountain. She told me that the hardest part of the ride is the section up to the toll house, with the remaining 8 kms (5 miles) to the top being steadier. I had planned to ride up to the toll house to consider whether I should go on or just come back down and continue with the Ironman loop but, feeling encouraged, I set off on the big climb.


Passing North Pole, New York (“Home of Santa's Workshop”), a little theme park that opened in 1949, I found this section of the Whiteface Veterans' Memorial Highway to be fairly arduous. The climb has been described as the American equivalent of the Alpe d'Huez, which I have actually ridden, and both certainly start off hard. Reaching the Alpine-inspired toll house (fee for a cyclist is US$15), I needed a short break to recover before the next section.


Whiteface Mountain's east side was used as the Alpine skiing venue for the 1980 Olympics and features the highest vertical drop of any ski area in the Eastern United States. Opened in 1929 by then-Governor Franklin D. Roosevelt, the Memorial Highway rises at an average of 8% to a parking lot at 4,610 feet above sea level, and access to the actual summit, another 280 feet, is either up a set of steps or an elevator. Those 8 kms uphill seemed to last forever. Unlike the Alpe d'Huez, the Memorial Highway does not really have any switchbacks until the last 2 kms so it is a steady grind, with no relief along the way. Stopping to take photos was tricky as getting going again at that gradient was not very easy. Views from the summit are impressive and it was a fine day but already quite cold.


View of Lake Placid


I had the foresight to bring a small backpack with extra clothing—arm and leg covers, glove liners—which turned out to be a good idea as returning downhill at speed (even for this terrible descender) felt freezing. The road surface is excellent but at the steepness speed builds up very fast and it was not so comfortable until I passed the toll house. Oddly, I found doing this final section into Wilmington much better as the curves were wider and easier for control.


Back in Wilmington, it is time to head southwest along Route 86 and the 21 kms back to Lake Placid. This section of the Ironman loop features steady climbing, including three little climbs known as the Three Bears, which would be very tiring if you were doing both loops of an Ironman race. Traffic was heavier here again and while the shoulder is paved it is rather narrow in some spots. There are little parking spots were people stop to go fishing in the Ausable River.

Soon enough one is back in Lake Placid and unlike the Ironmen/women, I did not have to run a marathon after getting off the bike, thankfully. In all, I had covered 120 kms and climbing just under 2100 m. A beautiful day out that can be recommended for any cyclist—well, maybe with more modern gearing that my 34-26!


Mirror Lake, on the shores of which is found the town of Lake Placid, oddly

As to the Ironman Lake Placid race taking place on July 21, 2024, this will be the 25th Anniversary Edition, with various special events. General registration sold out in August already for the 3,200 participants so you just have to do it on your own.  The Ironman website provides a map and turn-by-turn instructions for the course here. The Veterans Memorial Highway information is here.  And if you really want to race up Whiteface Mountain, you can check out the event information here. 

I had planned to enjoy some craft beers at the nearby Lake Placid Brewing Company but my legs were so exhausted that the best I could do was stagger over to the nearby McDonalds, where I recall eating pretty much the entire menu.  The next morning was not much better as I walked to a local diner and had the biggest meal, the Adirondack Breakfast, on the menu, which disappeared as soon as the waiter set it down.  Apparently my ride the day before had used up something like 5,00 Kcal!

Feeling somewhat more myself and having packed the car, I drove over to a state historical park.  This was the one-time home, and then only briefly, of famed abolitionist John Brown, who helped ignite the Civil War by leading a slave uprising to seize the arsenal at Harper's Ferry in Virginia in 1857.  Executed for treason, he is buried with some of his followers at this farm in North Elba.  It is a beautiful site and a peaceful setting considering its association with a pivotal and still-controversial figure in United States history.  More information on the John Brown Farm may be found here.






Wednesday, 24 December 2014

Book Review: The Race Against the Stasi


Bike racing is hard, very hard if you add up everything from the hours of training to the exhaustion of sprinting and climbing to the anxieties of actual competition to the too-real risk of crashing Now imagine that cycling could give you everything you wanted—fame, money, the unbridled admiration and affection of fellow-citizens, the chance to meet the girl of your dreams. But if things go wrong you will be deemed a traitor, not only to your sport but also to your nation. Those close to you will live under the preying eyes of Europe's most feared secret police and members of your family will have their own lives irrevocably changed for the worse. Welcome, then, to the world of a top East German cyclist, Dieter Wiedemann, who defected, for love, to West Germany in 1964 and the primary subject of Herbie Sykes' latest book “The Race Against the Stasi.”


The book opens with an excellent 20 page summary of the importance of sports and particularly bicycle racing and particularly the Peace Race in the so-called German Democratic Republic (GDR), a country considered to be the most efficient and/or ruthless of Stalin's Eastern European puppet states. Two of those countries, Poland and Czechoslovakia (as it then was) came together to run a high-level bicycle road race in 1950 after two years of planning and in 1952 the pariah GDR was able to participate in what had now become a Prague-Warsaw-Berlin axis. The timing was not ideal as the relationship between the three countries was ragged, socialist fellow-feeling aside. The Poles and the Czechs had suffered greatly under German invasion and occupation during the World War II and some six million ethnic Germans had only recently been expelled from those countries in a massive example of “ethnic cleansing” which may have resulted in a million civilian deaths. Furthermore, the GDR could not boast the stability (or eventual prosperity) of its larger western half and in June 1953 a strike by construction workers in Berlin escalated rapidly and was only put down by Soviet tanks, a precursor of what was to happen three years later in Poland and Hungary and in 1968 in Prague. GDR citizens poured out of the country, heading west, a hemorrhaging that would only end in August 1961 with the construction of the Berlin Wall. 

The GDR had wanted to field its own Olympic team for the 1952 Helsinki games but was blocked by West Germany and the IOC, which had called for a unified team. Seeking some kind of sport legitimacy, authorities turned to the Peace Race, which was an event outside the remit of the Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI). Everyone likes to win and for East Germany participation in the Peace Race was the beginning of a “diplomats in track suits” policy. Success in sports was meant to showcase the superiority of the socialist system to the decadent warmongering West. That success was to be astonishing for a country of 18 million once admitted to the Olympic games under its own name in 1968. Fueled by systemic doping, primarily anabolic steroids, East German athletes routinely finished second in the Olympic medal table. In 1976 the country took home 40 medals from the Montreal games (six more than the USA) and in 1984 actually won the most medals at the Winter Olympics in Sarajevo. Of course, the price of this success was horrific physical damage to its young athletes but winning at all costs was more important in the self-styled “Workers' and Farmers' State.”


The Peace Race was an invaluable propaganda tool for the regime and the crowds it attracted (admittedly often through obligation) outranked those of the purely commercial Tour de France. Usually ending in a stadium for maximum visibility, the Peace Race “was a perfect vehicle for cultivating both patriotism and social control. Schools and factories piped radio broadcasts of the race around their buildings, and took pride in contributing prizes for the cyclists. On the day of their stage entire towns and villages would engage, pupils and workers bussed to the roadside to form part of the spectacle. Everybody felt an obligation to attend, because to do otherwise was perceived as an abrogation of civic responsibility.”





It became known as “the Race of Millions” because of the spectators and was the highlight of the East Bloc sporting calendar. Tour de France winners were just seen as great cyclists whereas Peace Race victors like the GDR's double winner Gustav-Adolf “Täve” Schur were turned into symbols of the state, pin-up boys for socialism. Billed as an amateur event and attracting numerous non-East Bloc participants (including the individual and team winners from the United Kingdom in 1952) the race ran until the fall of the Berlin Wall and the end of the Cold War pretty much ended its significance as Eastern Europe's best riders turned pro and headed for the Tour de France and greater sporting glory. Although some big names went on to win the race post-1989 (including Jens Voigt, Michele Scarponi and Steffen Wesemann) it became a mere shadow of itself and fell off the calendar entirely after 2006.

One of the most famous sections was "the Steep Wall" in the small town of Meerane in Thuringia, which pitches up to 13%.  Here is 8 mm film showing the 1960 Peace Race passing through:



With its sporting success in the Peace Race paving the way, the GDR set up its sports support structure through the establishment of local clubs and it was via the one near Chemnitz (renamed Karl-Marx-Stadt and now once again Chemnitz) that Dieter Wiedemann, born in 1941, began his upward climb in East German cycling ranks. A lathe operator, he was soon identified as a good prospect and by May 1960 he was instructed to stop working at the factory and train full time with state support. He was provided a superior wage and the equipment he required and he hoped to be on the prospective 1964 Olympic team, which would be a joint one with members from both Germanies participating. In addition his goals were to do well in time trials at the national level as well as the Worlds, which then offered an “amateur” component as well as professional one. Of course, it is obvious that the East German riders were not amateurs in any way as they were paid a generous living wage by the state and trained and raced full-time, an arrangement followed in other East Bloc nations.

This smooth advance which saw Wiedemann as part of the successful national time trial team with his club in 1960 was interrupted in July when the young racer met an attractive girl from West Germany who was visiting relatives nearby. A correspondence ensued but it seemed clear that the building of the Berlin Wall meant that the couple, living only 300 kms apart but divided by the Cold War, would never get together but circumstances changed.


In spite of its claimed moral superiority, the GDR was rife with corruption and favoritism. Wiedemann, in spite of promising results, was beginning to be passed over in favour of riders from Berlin and the club there under the patronage of a very senior Party member. He did get to ride in the 1964 edition of the Peace Race, standing on the final podium in third place, but decided that he would wage everything on the Olympic trials, the first of which would be held across the border in Giessen and defect. His intention was to marry his Sylvia and to become a pro racer. Although the book makes an effort to raise the suspense (there were Stasi (Staatsicherheit or State Security) agents accompanying the team), Dieter Wiedemann more or less took out his bicycle for a training ride and did not come back. As a quiet apolitical person his defection was completely unexpected.

Dieter Wiedemann's reason for defecting to the West: Sylvia
His subsequent history is not very remarkable. He did get married and for three years he rode as a pro for the Torpedo team, including the 1966 Tour de France where he rode up Mont Ventoux following Tommy Simpson, whom he saw collapse onto the road. He was a good support rider but left racing at 26 to work for component company Fichtel & Sachs, the owner of the Torpedo team, as his family grew.

Dieter Wiedemann as a pro racer in the West
What is remarkable to our eyes is the result of his defection. In a series of file entries we see the anger of the GDR unleashed, official resentment that one of its specially-treated golden boys had turned traitor. His father lost his job as a mechanic for the racing club in Chemnitz and his younger brother, a very promising young athlete who may have been a better rider than Dieter, was drummed off the team, ending any possible prospect of a cycling career. An impressive number of nasty neighbours and informants filled the Stasi files with their venom, and one of the main gripes was that the prizes Dieter had been awarded should be returned to the state. He did arrange to have his bicycle sent back as that was demanded as well. His father was not allowed passage to West Germany for the wedding and even when an amnesty was granted following a high-level agreement between the two Germanies in 1972 Dieter and his family were able to visit Chemnitz but were still subject to Stasi surveillance and in fact there was still a file entry for 1982, 18 years after he left. The relationship with his family in Chemnitz became strained and he and his brother remain unreconciled.

“The Race Against the Stasi” features an interview style that is highly readable and includes comments from Dieter, his family and friends as well as a number of East German cycling stars, including the famous Täve himself. Schur, who has been denied entry into the German Sports Hall of Fame for his refusal to admit the widespread use of performance-enhancing drugs in the GDR although his own teammates have confirmed it, became a Member of the German Parliament (Bundestag) after reunification and served for the PDS (the successor to the old East German Communist Party) from 1998-2002. He was voted East German Sports Personality of the Year nine times in a row (1953-1961) and Greatest East German Sports Personality of All Time.

Dieter Wiedemann's story might be atypical in that he had received special favour by the GDR but the book is illustrative of the pettiness of the authoritarian state and how little it valued its own citizens. The story of the Peace Race and its aftermath, the effects on its star athletes and their families, as revealed in “the Race Against the Stasi” suggests that Western commercial pro races like the Tour de France, for all the cheating and corruption there might be, are only bicycle races. The Peace Race was in many ways far worse: a mendacious manipulation of public sentiment, parading its supposed high morals, with no concern for its athletes except in how they might best serve the state that was so unworthy of their sacrifice. A different history and well worth the read.

“The Race Against the Stasi” by Herbie Sykes
399 pp., ill., hardcover
Aurum Press, London, 2014
ISBN 978 1 78131 308 4
Suggested prices for US and Canada are US$27.99 US, C$29.99; in the UK it is ₤18.99.
The book can be purchased through a variety of US and Canadian vendors and for more information go to: http://www.qbookshop.com/products/218994/9781781313084/The-Race-Against-the-Stasi.html

Sunday, 15 December 2013

Book Review: Racing Hard


 

An Englishman, James Moore, won the world's first bicycle road race (from Paris to Rouen) in 1869 but he had moved to France with his parents when he was four and spoke English with a heavy French accent. In the years afterwards the English-speaking world was not much of a factor and the sport was only covered by a few journalists outside of the European continent. But there has been a sea-change, with American, Australian and British Tour de France winners and World Champions on the road (in addition to track success). William Fotheringham of the UK's the Guardian newspaper has watched and recorded events for more than two decades and in his latest book, “Racing Hard,” looks back over an era.

William Fotheringham, known for his biographies of Tom Simpson, Fausto Coppi and Eddy Merckx and a racing cyclist himself, has been writing for the Guardian since 1994 as its cycling correspondent, having previously contributed to Cycling Weekly and remains an active journalist. He does not describe how he entered this particular field. One recalls Samuel Abt of the International Herald-Tribune in Paris become that paper's cycling writer along with being a senior editor since nobody knew anything else about the sport. However, Fotheringham is bemused that he has been asked to put together the collection. He mentions Sean Kelly's comment when, after a square in his Irish hometown was named for him, Kelly remarks that it is the kind of thing that normally only happens when someone is dead. “The brief, you are asked, is to select your best stuff. However, most journalists, I suspect, believe that their best piece is the next, or the one after that.”

And there is a lot of good stuff in this book (well, except for photos—nary a one). The author had to pick through no fewer than 2,500 pieces to make his selection and discovered constant themes emerging. These are not surprising to the casual fan, although the focus does tend more on the British rather than English-speaking component : Lance Armstrong, doping, the Tour de France, the Festina scandal, the emergence of British cyclists at the Tour, Britain and the Olympics.

Fotheringham makes the point that before he began there were stories to be had about pro riders of interest to the British public but by the 1990s the feats of Kelly, Millar, Roche and, yes, LeMond did not carry the same weight after their retirements. Instead the press began to view the Tour de France as an event in itself, with the Festina scandal and the rise and dominance of Armstrong in the years after being irresistible stories. The author thinks one of the difficulties of the sport is its lack of coherence in its structure and that it is difficult to explain to a non-specialist audience. “The rise of the British, of Wiggins, Cavendish, Sir Chris Hoy et al., has been a delightful exception to that rule: a coherent narrative with heroes who, by and large, stuck around over the years, didn't disappear for entire seasons, didn't test positive and lie through their back teeth.”

The first six chapters deal with the Tour de France and the reader is in the fortunate position that the stories are not merely reprints but include comments by Fotheringham looking back from today's vantage point. It is clear that some of the stories had to be rushed to meet a deadline. But there is enormous charm in the opening where describes watching the tour on July 13, 2001—the day before Bastille Day-- in an obscure hamlet named Mattexey in France, where the locals had set up trestle tables to sell refreshments to visitors, an opportunity for villagers to meet each other and enjoy a day when the world was focused, however briefly, for a moment of this corner of la France profonde.

Finding the special angle is always a challenge and Fotheringham is creative in his approach. His account of the ill-fated Linda McCartney Foods team is about the difficulties the staff faced in maintaining a vegetarian diet for the athletes, although as time showed that was to be the least of the team's worries. It was disbanded at the start of 2001 leaving its entire line-up of racers (including young Bradley Wiggins) stranded.

The book recounts the stories, well-known to many of us, of those Tours from then until 2012, ending the section not with the triumph of Wiggins that July but with the television interview in January 2013 in which Lance Armstrong admitted his doping past to Oprah Winfrey. Doping is a recurrent theme in the book, sometimes directly as in the events surrounding the Festina team in 1998 or on reflection as Fotheringham looks back. Defenders of pro cycling have a difficult task as once it became apparent just how widespread doping was in the sport the excuses that only minor riders doped or that only star riders did it exceptionally were thin. The argument that “everyone did it” is pretty true but no excuse. The author is matter-of-fact in his reporting and does not see everything in black-and-white. The first journalist to interview David Millar in-depth after his doping admission, Fotheringham has sympathy but does not offer suggestions as to the sport's future course.

Much happier is the second half of the book where Mr. Fotheringham's patriotic heart is all a-glow as the British, whose road racing history in continental Europe had seemed to something out of Monty Python with the exception of a few talented and determined individuals, are in the ascendant on the track and have two Tour de France victories (although the book does not include Froome's win, having been published in June this year) in the bag. New actors appear, including the British Cycling organization, the brilliant Chris Hoy and a raft of super women as well. The Olympics are the playing field here and the writing betrays Fotheringham's great pleasure at being present.

A thoughtful tone permeates the final section of the book, “In Memorium,” and the author notes: “It cannot be said that writing obituaries is a pleasure, but for a specialist writer on a daily newspaper the exercise is satisfying to say the least, offering as it does the chance to present to the readers some of the individuals who simply don't get into the pages...Beryl Burton was a classic example of a sports star of immense talent who never received the national acclaim she deserved. This at least was a step towards redressing the balance.”

Those he wrote about included not only Burton, an incredible amateur time-triallist but also the colourful Percy Stallard, who brought British road racing into the modern world as founder of a breakaway racing organization (from which he was subsequently expelled!) which eventually saw racing on public roads made legal in 1960. The pathetic end of Marco Pantani is recounted. Fotheringham comment today: “The Italian's death was a horrendous event. He had been exposed as a drugs cheat, and was in massive denial, but it was impossible to forget the charismatic cyclist and the engaging, eccentric character that he was. It was also impossible to avoid the feeling that collectively the entire sport bore a measure of responsibility for his death. “We all killed him,” were my first words on hearing of his death; this is how I still feel today.”

“Racing Hard” is about, well, racing hard but also has much that is thoughtful and empathetic. A journalist must keep distance and so William Fotheringham has but at the same time the reader senses his affection for those he writes about, his love of the sport and his pride in the accomplishments of British riders. A commendable collection and a fine read, even given the inescapable presence of doping.

“Racing Hard”
by William Fotheringham
358 pp., paperback, 2013, Faber & Faber Books, London
ISBN 978-0-571-30362-5

Suggested retail price: 12.99 GBP, available through on-line retailers as well.

Friday, 29 January 2010

Canadian Cyclist to Carry Flag at 2010 Winter Olympic Games

No, it's not me. 

Clara Hughes, 18-time (!) Canadian national cycling champion, and winner of bronze medals in the time trial and road race in the 1996 Atlanta games, is going to be carrying the Canadian flag when the Olympics open in Vancouver on February 12.  She also has won eight medals at the Pan American Games and the 1997 Liberty Classic in Philadelphia.  And won the silver medal for road time trialling at the World Championships in 1995.

Oh, and she is pretty good without a bicycle as well, having won a gold, silver and bronze medal in speed skating, making her the only athlete to win multiple medals at the Winter and Summer Olympic Games.  She was also World Champion in the 5000 m event in 2004, and a World Record Holder in the 10,000 m.

But, honestly, how can somebody be National Champion 18 times?  I don't think I will manage this, and as for speed skating I believe I am the only Canadian who cannot actually skate at all.

Wednesday, 20 August 2008

Eat like an Olympian! Become a Gold Medal Glutton!

Michael Phelps in action in Beijing (photo by T. Haines)

Congratulations to Michael Phelps for his amazing success in the swimming pool. How does he do it, you ask? Besides the hours of training, the superior motivation, the world-class agility, he follows a special diet. You can do this too, and a writer at the Globe & Mail did it with hilarious results. Read about it here (warning: not for the digestically-sensitive) and realize that it is not easy to consume 12,000 calories a day. Now that Mr. Phelps has won more medals than anyone ever, he might want to cut back a little on the fried egg sandwiches in his future life. Could this diet have been something to psyche-out opponents? Does he really eat no fruit? It interesting to compare this to diet designed for a person who is essentially a sprinter in the water with the diet of a pro cyclist, where fueling for endurance is key.